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  #1  
Old 05-25-2019, 02:07 PM
ZeoSteve ZeoSteve 目前線上
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Default High nitrates, low phosphates nitrates not dropping? HELP

Hi everyone, i have a 16 gallon tank with a 10 gallon sump (actual water volume 64 litres or 17 gallons) I started the tank 6 months ago with the ZeoVit 14 day cycle.
I definitely messed it up as i forgot to take the GFO out of a reactor during the cycle, i think that created the imbalance in nutrients.

Ever since my ammonia dropped and i got the GFO out, my nitrates have always been high at about 50ppm whereas phosphates stay low at 0.01/0.03ppm, I do weekly 15-20% water changes with RO/DI water (i change the DI resin regularly).
I maintain alk, calcium and magnesium with 2 part.
also my skimmer is barely pulling anything out of the water, which is definitely weird for a carbon dosing tank (i think?)

Here's my dosing schedule:
- 2x daily i dose a 19:1 boiled RO/DI water - zeostart3 solution, dosing 1.2ml of this solution twice a day i effectively dose 0.12ml of zeostart, which is the reccomended amount for my system.
- 2x a week 1 drop of zeobak
- once every two days 1 drop of sponge power
- 160ml of zeovit media with a flow of 60l/hour (16gph)
- 64ml zeovit carbon

I am currently running the tank with no light as i want to avoid algae issues with such high levels of NO3 and PO4 and i have no corals yet.
I am also thinking about dosing inorganic phosphates in controlled doses with my planted tank Phosphorous fertilizer (just enough to raise phosphates to about 0.06ppm daily).

Has anyone had a similar problem or ever heard of something similar? any help whatsoever will the REALLY appreciated.
Fingers crossed someone can help me!
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  #2  
Old 05-25-2019, 10:46 PM
jacky jacky 目前離線
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a little thought

There is not much water purification, it is only possible to avoid any impact.

As long as the coral is healthy, it is not a problem at present. It is worried that the phosphorus will cause coral pressure because it is reduced too fast, so as long as the coral is healthy.

You should keep 8~10hr of illumination.
It is not recommended to add any more PO4. This may cause some problems.

This may be due to the relationship between different bacteria. It is recommended that you use some good live rock. If there are no animals in the tank, if there are animals in the tank, then this may need to avoid the rise of PO4, or when the animal coral enters the tank, there is "Load", I believe that Skimmer will be able to perform normally.

GFO is extra to remove some things, I don't know much, then I suggest you change the water, refresh/supplement

No animal corals, you can make some changes
There are animal corals, avoiding some impact changes as much as possible

Continue to use the Zeo base, the ZeoVit reactor is suitable for flow, and observe that PO4 should not rise again, so that tank is as stable as possible
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  #3  
Old 05-25-2019, 11:26 PM
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G.Alexander G.Alexander 目前離線
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Hi ZeoSteve



Can you please tell us more about your system like which kind of rocks you have used, how deep the sand is, if you use any kind of mechanical filtration material, fish stocking level etc ?

A picture of the sump and the whole tank might also be helpful.

G.Alexander
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  #4  
Old 05-26-2019, 06:21 AM
ZeoSteve ZeoSteve 目前線上
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Hi everyone, thanks for the replies.

So about a year ago I started this same tank with about 8kg (roughly 17lbs) of live wet Fiji rock, I after a few weeks I had aiptasia all over the rocks. I said to myself I'll never get wet live rock again.

So I stripped the tank down completely and treated the rock with bleach bath following the process recommended by brstv on YouTube. After the bath I let it dry completely and I cured/cycled it for about 2 weeks so I had clean white Fiji rock to start with, after reading that the zeovit cycle needs live rock I bought another 1kg of live wet rock that looked clean from a LFS.

My sand is more or less 1inch or 2.5cm deep everywhere in the tank, I use a mesh filter sock on the main overflow pipe going into the sump that I change once a week. I am planning to start using felt socks though.
I had a Dyno / cyano problem that I completely eradicated with 72h blackout and dosing coral snow, zeobak, cyanoclean and biomate everyday. The problem has been gone for about a month now.

I have two small AC powerheads right now but I plan to get an AI Nero 5 soon.
My stocking is 1 skunk cleaner shrimp, 1 bicolour blenny and 1 LPS that I think is a scolymia, it's looking fine with just ambient ligh so far.
Is running the lights important for the zeovit bacteria population?

Also as you can see from the pictures my sump has no baffles, so there's low water movement in it

I am planning on having two clownfish in the tank and getting some small sps frags when the tank stabilises, I just don't want to get any sps right now as I'm sure they'll just die.

Let me know if you need any other information! And thanks for the help!
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  #5  
Old 05-26-2019, 06:46 AM
ZeoSteve ZeoSteve 目前線上
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Thanks for the replies everyone.

So about a year ago I started the same tank with about 10kg (roughly 22lbs) of wet live Fiji rock. After a few weeks a had aiptasia all over the rocks so I stripped down the tank and bleached the rocks following the process recommended by brstv on YouTube. After that I let them dry for about a week and cured/cycled them for about two weeks.

So I restarted with the zeovit cycle using dry white Fiji rock and I added about 1kg of fresh wet live rock from a LFS that looked really clean,
So in total about 11kg of rocks (or 24lbs).

My sand is about 2.5cm or an inch deep everywhere in the tank, my stocking is just 1 skunk cleaner shrimp, 1 bicolour blenny and one LPS which I think is a scolymia that is doing fine with ambient light so far (doesn't look happy but it's doing ok). I had a dino/cyano problem a few weeks ago but it went away completely after a 72h blackout while dosing coral snow, zeobak, cyanoclean and biomate every day.

I have 2 AC powerheads for water movement right now but I'm planning on upgrading to an AI nero 5 sometime soon. I have a Radion XR15w G4 pro that I keep off at the moment. Is light important for the zeovit bacteria?
In the pictures you can see I don't have baffles in the sump so the flow is quite low in there, could this be a problem? I have a mesh filter sock on the main drain from the overflow as mechanical filtration and I change it about once a week.

In the future I would like to keep two ocellaris clownfish and get some sps like stylophora, seriatopora and when things are looking good some acropora. I just don't want to get them now as I know they would just die right now as I don't think the tank is stable.

Thanks for the attention and if you need any more information I'll be happy to provide it!

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
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  #6  
Old 05-26-2019, 10:35 AM
jacky jacky 目前離線
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some thoughts

1. If the filter wool of the overflow tank is removed, it may cause some additional problems. The water level of the main display system, the sound of falling water, etc.?

I mean, if everything is good, then removing the filter can be good, I am not sure if it is the relationship between the filter and the high level of NO3.

In addition, there is usually no filter in the ZeoVit reactor. I don't know what the reason for using the filter is. Maybe there is another reason? And I don't know if it is the reason why the filter is high.

Although the hoop is not in contact with seawater, it is recommended to replace it with a belt (just for the better)

The water from the main display system to Sump seems to only pass from the "upper" overflow area to the sump, which may not be enough for the loop

The main display system does not seem to be really discovered. You should keep 8~10hr of illumination (coral animals need light, even if you have high nutrition), unless you really need to completely turn off the light source, the light is relatively Also reducing nutrients, and apparently expressing algae

Because you bleached the rocks, I don't know what way to use them. Perhaps there are some unknown substances in the rocks.

The main display of the rock inside the system does not seem to be really discovered (sorry, I don't quite mean it)

Tanks have high NPs at the beginning. Have they ever fallen? (PO4 has been dropped, additional use of objects)

Subsequent, the part of the light source may be insufficient, SPS

Some thoughts, of course I don't fully understand your tank, maybe many places, my thoughts are not right.
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  #7  
Old 05-26-2019, 03:24 PM
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Bugger Bugger 目前離線
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I would just do a 80% water change and be done with it.
Personally I forgo the triton testing by changing 50% of my water every week or two weeks. I also use a dozen fatty acid and amino acid supplements that keep my corals happy. I would turn on the lights after and maybe buy some snails (1 mexican turbo )

Your tank is to small to warrant heavy testing just keep up with the water changes and heat the water you replace
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  #8  
Old 05-26-2019, 03:34 PM
ZeoSteve ZeoSteve 目前線上
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bugger View Post
I would just do a 80% water change and be done with it.
Personally I forgo the triton testing by changing 50% of my water every week or two weeks. I also use a dozen fatty acid and amino acid supplements that keep my corals happy. I would turn on the lights after and maybe buy some snails (1 mexican turbo )

Your tank is to small to warrant heavy testing just keep up with the water changes and heat the water you replace
Thanks for the suggestion, but wouldn't replacing such a big amount of water reduce the zeo bacteria population massively?
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  #9  
Old 05-26-2019, 04:48 PM
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Bugger Bugger 目前離線
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All the denitrafying bacteria is on and in the rock and sand bed.
sure there is bacteria in the water column but I've never had an issue and their are no fish in the tank are there
After the water change you should have lowered nitrate levels replenished any elements that has been used up.
I no longer use any trace additive and neither should you with only 16 gallons of total water.
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  #10  
Old 05-26-2019, 11:33 PM
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G.Alexander G.Alexander 目前離線
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Thank you for the additional information. Do you had the high NO3 level since the beginning or has it slowly increased over several weeks ? Have you already cross check the level with a different test kit ?

G.Alexander
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  #11  
Old 05-27-2019, 01:53 AM
ZeoSteve ZeoSteve 目前線上
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Hi again, so this is my nitrate testing log, as you can see from the first picture I had a huge spike of nitrate right when the 14 day cycle ended, it went up to about 100ppm back when I had no animals in the system. After that it went down to 20-25ppm and it started increasing again in the last 2 months to about 50ppm.

In the third picture you can see my phosphate testing log, as you can see it has always stayed low, sometimes undetectable and only recently it stabilised around 0.03ppm

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
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  #12  
Old 05-27-2019, 03:00 AM
jacky jacky 目前離線
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some thoughts

"When I had no animals in the system, it rose back to about 100 ppm. After that, it dropped to 20-25 ppm and began to increase again to about 50 ppm in the past 2 months."

1. Why is the initial NO3 up to 100ppm? Do you use Ro/di water?

2. After that, it drops to 20-25ppm, then this also means that it can be reduced (Zeo base added / used)

3. And began to increase again to about 50ppm in the past 2 months. Relative - what you have changed, such as: Zeo dose, ZeoVit material, reactor flow, or other reasons, after your changes, etc.

If the Ro/di water is good and everything else is good, it may be that the Zeo bacteria are not really playing, I don't know, the dose/flow/or some changes.

Anyway, I think I can do everything well for the time being, start with the correct Zeo base balance dose, and you can post the basic message about your tank and understand it is also good.

In the two months when NO3 has risen again, have you changed anything, or adjusted, and done?

No3 is rising again. Is there an idea from you about it?
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  #13  
Old 05-27-2019, 04:52 AM
jacky jacky 目前離線
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Sand, what kind of sand is it? Is there more information/description about it?
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  #14  
Old 05-27-2019, 04:57 AM
ZeoSteve ZeoSteve 目前線上
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Hi Jacky, thanks for your thoughts!

The sand is basic aragonite sand that I rinsed for 2-3 days in RO/DI water before using it.
By the way the black part in the zeo reactor isn't a filter it's the zeo carbon
I haven't changed anything in the tank so far since the beginning. Just turned the lights off to avoid algae but I'll soon turn them back on anyway.

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
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  #15  
Old 05-27-2019, 07:37 AM
jacky jacky 目前離線
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thank you, ZeoSteve

1. If the water is replaced, will the NO3 rise again after the cycle?

2.As G.Alexander said, is there a chance to cross test NO3?

Sorry, the original black thing is Zeo activated carbon.

Then there is one thing that needs to be clarified first.

The correct value of NO3

Do you use Ro/di water?
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