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sttaelma 04-21-2018 05:41 PM

Help with 14 day cycle

would it be possible to provide some feedback please?

I have a question about the zeovit 14 day cycle. first some system info:

1. Gross water volume of your complete system (incl. sump etc.) - 750 liter
2. Net water volume (incl. sump etc.) - 660 liter
3. Are you using a CaCO2 reactor or other technique - No
4. Are you using a PO4 reactor (how long, how long ago, etc.) No
5. Are you using Ozone - No
6. Are you using UV - No
7. What skimmer are you using (type, rated water volume) - for the moment bubble king mini 180. upgrade to bubble king deluxe 200 in the future
8. What are your actual PO4 and NO3 levels PO4 - 0,01 ppm (hanna ULR), NO3 - 3 ppm (red sea nitrate pro)
9. What are your actual Ca, Alk and Mg levels - not tested yet
10. What filtration method do you use (refugium, DSB, Miracle Mud, etc.) - Zeovit
11. Type of light (Watt, color temp, how old, etc.)- radions
12. What corals do you keep - no corals as of yet
13. Tissue color (light or dark) ---
14. How long has the tank been running - 10 days on zeovit (14 day cycle). 12 days with (real reef + live) rocks and salt water
15. Why do you want to use the ZEOvit system - LPS 16. Any supplemental dosing (type, amount, why, etc.) ---
17. Live rock (how much, how old, etc.) 50kg real reef rock + 10kg live rock in sump
18. Any present problems -----
19. Problem description (tissue loss tips, tissue loss base, diatom bloom, algae, etc.) - some brown algea growth (diatoms probably) + a little green algea, but barely visible. probably normal cycle stuff, right?
20. What test kit do you use (how old, recently switched, etc.) Hanna checker ULR for phosphate testing, red sea for ammonia/nitrite/nitrate
21. Present dosing, amounts and intervals 1,7 liter zeovit rocks. 7 drops of zeobak + 7 drops of sponge power + 1,4ml of zeostart3 per day during the 14 day cycle. when should I go to normal dosing schedule as described in the guide (zeobak 1 to 2 times per week...)?
22. Other water parameters and water stability (salinity, temp, etc.) salinity: 1.025, ammonia: 0ppm, nitrite: 0,15ppm(red sea testkit)
23. Which salt brand do you use - Korallen zucht bio reef salt

I'm now at day 10 of zeovit 14 day cycle. I expected the cycle to take a lot longer due to the real reef rock (which was barely moist but not really wet anymore when we introduced it in the salt water), even with the help of the live rock. But now, the ammonia is at 0, the nitrate at 0,15ppm, and the nitrate has dropped from += 6ppm to 3ppm over the course of 3 days.

When should I introduce the first fish? should I wait, or can I introduce a fish?

if yes, what do you recommend as a fish? we have reserved a young yellow tang in a fish store. I can also get 2 young ocellaris clown fish, or for example 2 young chromis.

thx in advance for the help!

G.Alexander 04-22-2018 12:31 AM

As you have used dry rock the cycle will take much more time to get a stabile biology however things are looking good. Lets continue with your dosing plan until the 14 days have finished than dose as follows:

ZeoBac – 6 drops 3 x weekly
SpongePower – 6 drops every other day
ZeoStart – 0.6 ml 2 x daily

If the first 4 weeks have passed replace 50% of the ZeoVit material. After the exchange dose ZeoBac daily for 10 days.

Next exchange will be in additional 4 weeks, than replace 90% of the material. Further exchanges can be lengthen to 6 – 8 weeks. Make sure to dose ZeoBac daily for 10 days after each exchange.

Because of the fish it might be good to wait another 2 weeks and if things are looking good than you might try the small yellow tang first. Lets see how he is doing before adding additional fish which should be done very slow as the biology is still building up.

Because of the algae I would recommend to add a couple of snails already.


sttaelma 05-21-2018 02:01 PM

Hi Alexander.

I'm now entering week 6, and I have the following problem.

I've dosed as you said, changing 50% of the rocks after 4 weeks, then continue to dose zeobak daily for 10 days.

I haven't introduced the snails yet, but I've introduced 2 baby clowns and a foxface.
after measurements just now, my phosphates are at 0.0, but nitrates +-15ppm, probably due to adding the foxface. algea are back again growning everywhere (short brown algea on the sand + green on the glass) should I change anything?

I must also say that I haven't seen that much mulm from the reactor nor lots of dark skimmate, maybe my skimmer isn't aligned as it should...

do you have any suggestions?



G.Alexander 05-22-2018 03:55 AM

Can you please measure the reactor flow by collecting the water from the ZeoVit reactor outlet for 30 seconds with a small container ?

Than multiply its volume by 120 and you will get the exact output per hour.

Which kind of algae are growing in your system exactly ?


sttaelma 05-31-2018 01:07 PM

1 Attachment(s)

I've adjusted the skimmer to skim more wet, and it seems to pull out a fair amount of nearly black liquid, so that's better.

about the flow through the zeovit reactor, this seems to be about 450L/H
which I guess is not enough? I was just using the vertex 1.5L zeovit reactor for now, but my korallenzucht 2.0L reactor has just arrived. I guess this one will give me more flow.

It seems to me like mostly short brown algea, on the rocks and sand.
see attachment for a picture

it looks like it's not getting any better soon.

help is much appreciated, it's kind of depressing to look at now :P

sttaelma 05-31-2018 01:41 PM

but I'm not sure, it could be cyano as well...
I'm new to the different kinds of nuisance stuff

sttaelma 06-01-2018 02:59 AM

if it could help identify, the photo I sent was taken in the evening. every morning, the blanket of algae seems to have disappeared mostly. it always comes back steadily once the lights ramp up

G.Alexander 06-01-2018 03:02 AM

Reactor flow should be ~ 660 liters per hour, 450 liters is to less. I can not tell from the pictures if those are cyanos or not but it would be necessary to know what exactly it is.

Does they have a slimy substance and can you easy blow them away ?

Please also measure the quality of your RO water with a accurate TDS meter.


sttaelma 06-01-2018 03:06 AM

ok, I'll change out the reactor for the other one asap. my RODI water has 0 tds according to the built-in meter, but I'll go buy a handheld, it may be busted...

as the "algea"/cyano (I'm 80 percent sure it's cyano, I don't think algea can disappear/reappear as quickly, and the red color is suspicious) isn't there now, I'll wait until the afternoon, and do a blow test, I'll let you know

thank you in advance

sttaelma 06-01-2018 01:09 PM

I've tried to blow it away with a turkey baster type apparatus, and with very little thrust, the sand underneath is blown up. it seems to hang together rather slimy yes. But easily blown away. and it diminishes at night, by much.

what do you think it could be? and the cause?

sttaelma 06-01-2018 01:11 PM

there seem to form small bubbles on the surface of the stuff as well, if that helps

G.Alexander 06-01-2018 11:16 PM

Could indeed be cyanos , you can try to treat them with:

A mixture of ZeoBac and CoralSnow
A mixture of CyanoClean and CoralSnow


sttaelma 07-09-2018 01:35 PM

Hi Alexander,

we're a couple of months further,

algea are still present, but no wonder, nitrate is at +- 25ppm. Now they seem to be more present if that's possible

I've switched to a KZ reactor M +- 6 weeks back, so this should provide me with enough flow, and I've placed 1.8L stones in it.
I'm still dosing zeobak every day but to no avail, nitrates do not seem to be dropping

do you have an idea what I can be doing wrong? does the system just need more time, or ...?

(I'm this close to switching to red sea carbon dosing)



sttaelma 07-09-2018 01:49 PM

do note that I'm dosing all liquid additives (zeobak/sponge power/zeostart) in the tank itself (not in the sump/reactor), on the surface. maybe I'm doing something wrong there?

jacky 07-09-2018 02:23 PM

Usually only occurs in water with high organic dissolved matter (DOM), and strict control of the production of organic pollutants in the cylinder
For the feeding of fish in the tank, it is necessary to completely prevent the food from being deposited on the bottom of the tank. When feeding a large amount of coral, there must be strong filtering equipment, and the food residue can be cleaned at any time. The organic dissolved by the uneaten organic matter (POM) can be dissolved. The matter (DOM) is several times that of fish excreta. The pollution caused by deaths such as fish, corals, and microorganisms in the tank is also quite high. This high-nutrient form of organic pollutant is the best food for red mud algae. source! Simple forms of amine acid, vitamins and other additives are also the source of food! But it is hard to survive without feeding all the creatures in the tank! Therefore, the feeding amount is increased step by step, so that the bacteria in the tank can be balanced with the feeding amount, and the light is temporarily turned off for 3-5 days to improve the water flow in the tank, avoid the dead angle of the water flow, and avoid deposits appearing anywhere in the tank, strengthening Filtering equipment
Adjusting the protein to be very wet, using activated carbon, zeolite, etc., can help prevent the production of mud algae. Adding organic carbon can also change the lamp with a high k number. Kz bak+snow can slow it down

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